Spring’s New It Shoe Shape Is Everywhere—From the Runway to the Street

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Photos: Courtesy of Jamie Haller, Celine, Getty Images, Zara, Phil Oh and Launch Metrics

Sporty jackets, argyle sweaters, and pleated midiskirts were key to last season’s modern prep revival. And while many of those staples still reign for spring (albeit in lighter layers—think fine-gauge cardigans in place of heavy knits), one piece is gaining even more momentum: the lace-up derby. Thanks to Celine’s Michael Rider, the bright white version, in particular, is everywhere—and on everyone—this season, from the street style set outside Paris Fashion Week to editors here in New York.

White footwear for spring is nothing new, but it’s this effortless silhouette—more structured than a ballet flat, yet more relaxed than a classic loafer—that has the industry especially enamored. Call it the French-girl effect, but Rider isn’t alone in championing the style. Across the runways, designers from Jil Sander to Lemaire and Proenza Schouler offered their own refined takes on the polished, wear-with-everything shoe. Styling-wise, white derbies provide an elegant foundation for wardrobe staples like easy blue jeans and a crisp button-up (bonus points for a printed silk scarf à la Celine), or act as a pared-back counterpoint to more statement-making looks this spring.

Offerings aren’t limited to the runway, either. The high street has taken note with Zara and Reformation's glossy white lace-ups, while contemporary labels—from Jamie Haller’s sumptuously soft styles to glove-like pairs by Andrea Gomez and Nothing Written, and even a mesh iteration from Dear Frances—offer equally compelling options. For a more heritage-leaning take, consider Repetto’s ballerina-inspired derbies, long favored by French icons like Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin in the 1970s.

The footwear equivalent of a fresh start for the season ahead, white derbies capture spring’s renewed sense of ease. Below, discover 20 of the chicest styles—each with both street style and runway seal of approval.

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Celine

Celine Lise perforated triomphe shoes

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Reformation

Buffy oxfords

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Jamie Haller

The Jazz flats

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Wales Bonner

Julien slippers

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Proenza Schouler

glove lace up flats

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Zara

leather lace-up low heel shoes

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Repetto

Zizi Oxford shoes

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Common Projects

Derby shoes

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Andrea Gomez

Antonia full leather shoes

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Nothing Written

calm derby shoes

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By Far

Prudent nappa leather sneakers

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Lemaire

Souris flat classic derbies

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Caron Callahan

Claudette flats

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Soeur

Orso lace-up derbies

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Dear Frances

balla trainers

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Jil Sander

loafers

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Celine

ballet lace-up shoes

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Vivaia

square-toe lace-up satin sneakerinas

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Maison Margiela

Tabi jazz lace-up sneakers

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Lauren Manoogian

soft banded oxford shoes