For fall 2026, designers took the classic dress shirt—that hallmark of formality and conformity—and subverted it a bit.
At Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Balenciaga, and elsewhere, prim-and-proper button-downs went down the runway half-tucked, with one side peeking out of sweaters or jackets while the other was folded discreetly away. Talk about an unexpected breakout trend.
So, what’s it all about? The asymmetry of the look is the thing: it signals a kind of sprezzatura—as if you hustled out the door that morning without looking in a mirror—instantly adding a little zing to an otherwise staid outfit. Plus, who doesn’t love an easy styling hack? Just flip out a side of your collar, and you’ve instantly got a statement look.
Intrigued by this quirky approach to layering (and in desperate need of a new sartorial vibe), I decided to put the trend to the test. For my first attempt, I looked to the fall 2026 Celine show for inspiration, pairing my finest yellow dress shirt with a brown blazer.
Sliding one side of the collar beneath my lapel, I saw the difference immediately: my tailored look became just a little more irreverent and fun. It was still sleek, but in a less stuffy or serious way.
Next up, drawing on the looks at Bottega Veneta, I color-blocked with a blue dress shirt and pink cableknit sweater. Once again tucking one side of the collar in, I found that the outfit felt less preppy-chic, more fun and quirky.
There is definitely something smart about this collar thing. Similar to the “Olsen tuck,” which involves tucking one’s long hair inside of a turtleneck or shirt collar, the half-tuck conveys a cool nonchalance. Sure, your parents may think you just forgot to fix your shirt after putting on a pullover, but that cool girl seated near you at the café will think, Ooh, how very Jil Sander.
And the best thing about the trend? It could not be easier to execute. Fashion thrives on It items, but every now and again, the runways serve up a sensibility—and embracing that is absolutely free.
So, what are you waiting for? The next time you reach for a collared shirt, don’t be afraid to get a little weird with it. And if anyone questions your look, well, just tell them it’s runway-approved.
