The designer Josephus Melchior Thimister, who died yesterday at the age of 57 following a long battle with depression, used his subtle talent to define the artful minimalism of ’90s fashion but struggled to find a place in the years that followed. In Vogue’s July 2000 issue, Thimister was heralded as one of 10 members of “The New Guard” alongside such peers as Nicolas Ghesquière, Hedi Slimane, Viktor & Rolf, and Junya Watanabe. “Thimister’s signature look,” wrote Sally Singer, “honed in his couture and ready-to-wear creations, is one of luxurious imperfection, of a grandeur distressed to a wicked grooviness.”
Of Russian, Belgian, and French extraction, Thimister was born in Maastricht in the Netherlands and educated in England and Belgium, where he graduated as a star of the prestigious Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Latterly he lived in Dublin. Dressed in his signature old-fashioned matelot top, Thimister met the late Karl Lagerfeld at a Chanel couture show. The designer told him he was too good to be an assistant, but he nonetheless worked briefly for Lagerfeld’s eponymous brand before landing the job of creative director at the house of Balenciaga in 1992.
His debut collectsion, executed entirely in black and white, focused on the structural drama that was one of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s signatures and garnered new attention for the long-moribund house. Barneys and other prestigious fashion-forward retailers supported him from that first show. After 10 collectsions, (the last of which was set to a live rock music accompaniment so loud that Suzy Menkes and others walked out), Thimister struck out on his own (Ghesquière, formerly in charge of licenses, took over the helm).
Thimister and his dedicated team worked for three months to produce a 49-piece haute couture collectsion that he presented during the January 1996 Paris Couture Week (having fulfilled the exigent demands of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture) in the glacial École des Beaux-Arts. Thimister’s sister helped finance the collectsion; Armand Hadida, the owner of L’Eclaireur, loaned him his own workrooms; and the models—including, on one memorable occasion, Naomi Campbell—generally walked his runway for free. Thimister told Vogue’s André Leon Talley, who would become a friend, that he was thinking of clients who “want couture clothes for real life today.”
His proposition, which included elegantly draped sheaths of chalky crepe and filmy tulle T-shirts worn over buff leather pants, attracted clients including such discriminating couture mavens as Inès de la Fressange, Deeda Blair, Anne Bass, and Jayne Wrightsman, and Vogue hailed a “breakthrough collectsion [that] established the designer as the crown prince of haute couture.” But with minimal backing Thimister was unable to sustain the momentum. “You have to choose to be small and artisanal, or big; in between you always lose,” he later explained. “And if you are small, you have to work like a nutcase.”
Donatella Girombelli hired him to design her Genny collectsion and Thimister focused on his own ready-to-wear, where he “radically reimagined the very meaning of luxury.” Many of these collectsions were presented on Stockman dummies in his monastically elegant apartment on Paris’s Invalides—a ground floor, loft-like space in a bourgeois apartment building scented with church incense and with candles burning in the antique chandeliers. Thimister would have placed a cherished Russian icon alongside contemporary art, and Dusty Springfield’s “The Look of Love” might be playing on the soundtrack. There were commodious black velvet sofas and cushions—at that point the gregarious and droll Thimister liked to entertain—zebra skins were laid on the lacquered black floors, and a taxidermy baby elephant and polar bear provided a surprise greeting.
Thimister returned to the haute couture in January 2010 with a powerful capsule collectsion, “1915: Bloodshed and Opulence,” which featured repurposed military jackets and canvas tents mixed with conventionally luxurious fabrics, and dye effects that suggested the spattering of blood. Thimister did not shy from violent references: He based a 1999 collectsion on the notorious Baader Meinhof gang. Although prescient, the return to clothing design proved short-lived, but Thimister became the creative director for Charles Jourdan and also turned his aesthetic skills to decorating; he had already designed interiors for friends and for installations during the Biennale des Antiquaires. In recent years he had been teaching his exceptional and hard-won skills to a new generation of fashion students at La Cambre in Brussels and at the Institut Français de la Mode.
Photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue, April 19991/7“High-tech designs from Josephus Thimister, worn with blood-red opera gloves. Plastic and gauze dress.”
Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, November 19982/7“Josephus Thimister’s strapless dress is a carefree marriage of classic lines and modern materials, with black superprinted on padded taffeta.”
Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, March 19993/7“In his third collectsion, Josephus Thimister once again took the audience’s breath away with an artful melding of tatters and luxury. Tulle dress by Thimister Couture.”
Audrey Marnay photographed in the Suite Duc de Windsor at the Hotel Ritz in Paris.
Photographed by Irving Penn, Vogue, April 20004/7Long hand-knit metal and silver dress draped in tulle by Josephus Thimister Couture.
Photographed by Arthur Elgort, Vogue, October 19995/7“A modern take on the 19th-century equestrienne silhouette: Josephus Thimister’s saloon-girl look—an oiled, nipped-waist, four-pocket jacket, and matching skirt.”
Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, October 19986/7“Josephus Thimister’s breakthrough collectsion established the young designer as the crown prince of modern couture. This muslin dress is the epitome of understated luxury—and the ladies waited in line to order. Dress by Josephus Thimister Haute Couture.”
Photographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, July 20007/7“Josephus Thimister’s recent work is very earthy—with an organic, aged effect. Cream silk coat lined in white mink by Josephus Thimister Couture. Brown shearling coat with belt by Thimister.”
