Vogue.com Editors and Contributors Share Their Favorite Fall 2016 Moments Inline
Photo: Robert Diament1/29Sally Singer, Vogue Creative Digital Director
In London, Duro Olowu showed his beautifully cut collectsion of dresses, capes, coats, blouses, and crazy-good patterned ponyskin boots in the Mayfair home of his elegant, bohemian pal. This season, he has added a small collectsion of sculptural fine jewelry—lapis, diamonds, and gold. There were finger sandwiches and tea. His wife, Thelma Golden, was in town to talk politics, art, and Beyoncé. It was a cultured and special moment, which was so needed and so appropriate in a season in which discreet luxury was the Golden Fleece.
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv2/29Sarah Mower, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Chief Critic
The red puffer jacket, crystalled high-neck T-shirt, ski pants, and turquoise bejeweled pumps were carried off in style by Julia Nobis at Balenciaga. That was when the street style mentality of Vetements’s designer Demna Gvasalia coalesced, in a flash—a red-hot moment with Balenciaga.
Photo: Christopher / @xtofer.mccartha3/29Chioma Nnadi, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Fashion News Director
I think my favorite moment of fashion month came at the end of the Gypsy Sport show in New York, when the entire cast, including one model who was carrying a little baby in her arms, started dancing at the end of the runway. It was as if we were suddenly transported to this spontaneous rave party; people on the front row got up and joined in on the fun, too. It was a nice reminder that a fashion show can be a joyous moment of celebration.
Photo: Courtesy of Nicole Phelps / @nicolephelps4/29Nicole Phelps, Director, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews Runway
I always like a fashion show with a sociopolitical bent. Rick Owens has been thinking about climate change and the inevitability of humankind’s extinction. Heavy stuff. With such dark subject matter, his trick was to keep things light. When the weather apocalypse comes, I want one of his jumpsuits with the built-in pup tent.
Photo: Luca Tombolini / Indigital.tv5/29Jorden Bickham, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Executive Fashion Editor
I’ve been pushing the hoodie as an essential wardrobe piece and crushing on Bieber for the better part of the past year. My son and I have dance parties to his album daily. Finding out Demna is a Belieber, too? It’s all making sense now!
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv6/29Catherine Piercy, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Beauty Director
Louis Vuitton’s floaty slip dresses conjured a certain lightness of being that, after two weeks of steady rain, heavy coats, hats, scarves, and umbrellas at the Milan and Paris shows, was speaking to me. They’d look great layered over long sleeves and tights or worn alone, meaning, like that glossy merlot lip models wore down the runway, they seemed destined to become a year-round, beloved wardrobe staple.
Photo: Courtesy of Alesandra Codinha / @atcodinha7/29Alessandra Codinha, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Fashion News Editor
The family dog as fashion critic at Missoni! (The pup was so confident in the totally tremendous showing that he barely budged.)
Photo: Courtesy of Daniela Falcão / @danielafalcao18/29Laird Borrelli-Persson, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Archive Editor
A long-held obsession with dance was reignited twice this season. First at Hedi Slimane’s dazzling couture outing for Saint Laurent, where the mini poufs made me think of Edgar Degas’s Little Dancer sculpture, and then, the next day, at Valentino where there was tulle, pink slippers, and footless tights, along with some Ballet Russes–style embellishment. Heaven.
Photo: Andi Elloway9/29Edward Barsamian, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Style Editor
Outside of interviewing Victoria Beckham about her latest show and seeing Rihanna’s debut for Puma, my favorite moment from the Fall collectsions was going to Madison Square Garden for Yeezy Season 3. Tasked to take video from the show with my colleague [fashion news director] Chioma Nnadi was both nerve racking and exciting, and this photo highlights just how immense the setting was, along with the high energy amped up by the day’s soundtrack, Kanye West’s The Life of Pablo.
Photo: Marcus Tondo/ Indigital.tv10/29Marjon Carlos, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Senior Fashion News Writer
It’s all about vinyl for me next season! Hood By Air planted the seed with their OTT head-to-toe suiting and over-the-thigh boots that were not only ready for the club but for post-apocalyptic weather as well. Then there was Alyx’s flat sleek boots and silver jeans of the same make, along with the trench coat at Lanvin—worn with a tee, I can invite this fierce texture so often associated with the extreme and nighttime high jinks into my every day.
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo/ Indigital.tv11/29Steff Yotka, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Fashion News Writer
Cat people seem to have all the fun in fashion, but Thom Browne let us dog lovers have our moment in the sun at his Fall show. His own pooch, Hector, served as the model for this tote, but the real question is: Will he be taking custom orders after shoppers’ pups? My Jack would make a good duffel . . . just saying.
Photo: Courtesy of Alyx12/29Kristin Anderson, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Fashion News Writer
While the Fall ’16 shows on the whole may have been a bit on the underwhelming side, I could hardly be more excited about the finalists for this year’s LVMH Prize. Among the strong list, I was most delighted to see Wales Bonner, Vejas, and Alyx. When I first met Vejas Kruszewski a little over a year ago, I was blown away by his Fall ’15 offering, which took cues from heroines of horror films like Alien to an effect that was both visceral and refined. The latest lineup from Matt Williams’s ascendant brand, Alyx, meanwhile, earns major points for being the Fall 2016 collectsion I most wanted to wear all of, right then and there. From gorgeously fabricated ready-to-wear to incredible shoes and accessories, Alyx continues to get it very, very right.
Photo: Courtesy of 69 / Christine Hahn13/29Liana Satenstein, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Fashion News Writer
The L.A.-based label 69 put the fun back into denim, especially with their massive Cousin Itt–type shroud dresses that were swinging with fringe with every step. Though, if you’re on the tame side, the loose high-waisted denim jeans were pared back but still light and refreshing with a punch of that throwback ’90s goodness.
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv14/29Janelle Okwodu, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Fashion News Writer
It’s easy to think of Calvin Klein as being strictly about minimalism, but the Fall 2016 show’s exploration of color and texture left me inspired, particularly the pieces embellished with stones—a rare fashion moment for the geologist in us all.
Photo: Getty Images15/29Kelly Connor, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Market Editor
Looking back on the New York collectsions, the R13 show was a really happy memory for me. It was the brand’s first runway show and the first time that the elusive Chris Leba (formerly at Ralph Lauren) was able to celebrate and be recognized for what it is that makes R13, well, R13. It’s not just great denim, it’s a brand that nails the punk-meets-grunge thing in the most authentic way . . . and has never wavered from that idea, just perfected it. Punk will forever and always be alive and kicking as long as there is heart behind its modern iterations. Regardless of current trends, the R13 girl is always herself and always cool, and this season we actually got to see her (on the runway) IRL.
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv16/29Chelsea Zalopany, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Market Editor
I loved all of the little bits at Givenchy: the extra-cropped rocker jacket, delicate mint-color lace negligee dresses, and thigh-high boots in exotics. You can’t see it, but this retro black velvet dress features a low back—and the fur-trimmed collar continues all the way around the back! J’adore!
Photographed by Kevin Tachman17/29Brooke Danielson, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Accessories Editor
I loved the Marc Jacobs shoes—romantic goth. They are so shocking yet super-cool. This is going to be an exciting trend heading into fall of this year.
Photographed by Phil Oh18/29Mackenzie Wagoner, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Beauty Editor
Call it a case of grass is always greener, but just when I’ve finally grown my hair out, the brigade of choppy banged bobs at Alexander Wang (Katherine Moore), Vetements (Liene Podina), and Louis Vuitton (Heather Kemesky) made me consider picking up the scissors myself—and entertain the appeal of a fresh-from-the-box dye job.
Photo: Courtesy of Sies Marjan19/29Emily Farra, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Fashion News Associate
During a week of overhyped celebrity shows, Sies Marjan’s debut felt relatively quiet in comparison—in a good way! An alum of Dries Van Noten, designer Sander Lak presented his airy floral dresses and neon pastel furs in an unfinished penthouse next to 1 WTC, which turned out to be one of New York Fashion Week’s coolest venues. I loved the spring-y color palette and featherweight fabrics—who cares what season it is anymore?—and while dozens of other designers were riffing on “streetwear,” Lak just focused on fresh, pretty clothes that will flatter a woman’s figure.
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv20/29Lynn Yaeger, Vogue Contributing Editor
The spectral, otherworldly, neo-Victorian yet oddly modern glamour at Simone Rocha took my breath away. Who doesn’t want to greet the rough days ahead looking bare yet covered, vulnerable but confident, in tweed and chiffon?
Photo: Miquel Veit / Indigital.tv21/29Maya Singer, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Contributor
We all walk into fashion shows hoping to be surprised. Surprised by the clothes, that is—the show itself we expect to unfold in all the usual ways. Hood By Air scrambled those expectations this season, directing the model/performance artist Hirakish to go rogue on the runway. After he’d taken the accustomed pose before the cameras, Hirakish refused to cede the catwalk to the other models; instead, he zigzagged back and forth on his patent leather high-heel boots, interrupting the stately défilé, turning to the editors in the front row, and, finally, welcoming fellow model Boychild in an embrace. It wasn’t clear if Hirakish was in league with Hood By Air impresario Shayne Oliver as he went about his antics, or if he’d spontaneously decided upon them. The tension made the performance exciting—everyone at the show seemed to be holding their breath.
Photo: Courtesy of Sies Marjan; Marcus Tondo/ Indigital.tv; Luca Tombolini/ Indigital.tv22/29Anny Choi, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Assistant Market Editor
My favorite moment this season was when Katie Moore walked out with her new fire red hair at Sies Marjan’s debut collectsion. Not only was this collectsion everything I’ve ever wanted to wear—with the ugly-pretty clunky mules (that I need in every color!) and über-feminine floral dresses, styled with an oversize luxe sweater (see look 13)—but Katie’s Tweety Bird–yellow dress against the industrial backdrop off 100 Barclay really made this the best “fashion moment” for me as well. I’ve been obsessed with Katie’s new look since she opened Wang, and I seem to be especially drawn to Katie in the color yellow, as seen first at Sies Marjan, then at Rochas with the underdress, and, finally, at Mulberry with the shoes. This extreme ketchup-plus-mustard color combination makes her look like the coolest Tweety Bird there ever was!
Photo: Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv23/29Monica Kim, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Beauty Writer
“I loved every long, lean look on the Proenza Schouler runway, but when Yasmin Wijnaldum appeared in that ankle-length chartreuse knit gown—with that perfect pop of tomato red lipstick—it felt like a breath of fresh air, amid the punks and mall goths everywhere else.” —Monica Kim, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Beauty Writer
Photo: Pablo Latorre / Indigital.tv24/29Elizabeth Taufield, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Market Assistant
Jonathan Anderson is one of those designers who knows how to have fun with fashion without making it look or feel silly. The cat necklaces at Loewe were not only a perfect example of this but so eye-catching as well; I couldn’t stop thinking about how much I loved them after the show. Maybe being a cat lady isn’t so bad after all!
Photo: Courtesy of Luke Leitch25/29Luke Leitch, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Contributor
Photo: Courtesy of Nicole Phelps / @nicolephelps26/29Amy Verner, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Contributor
Iris van Herpen pushed the limits with her collectsion presentation, from the biomorphic, architected surface treatments on her dresses to models confronting themselves in optical light screens. I’m confident her fusion of futuristic elements and craft will have a ripple effect, whether in retail, film, fashion, or elsewhere. And some of us will get to say we witnessed it here first.
Photo: Luca Tombolini/ Indigital.tv; Courtesy of Supreme / @supremenewyork27/29Nick Remsen, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Contributor
Blondie’s “Hanging On the Telephone” theme (and soundtrack) at Jeremy Scott brought some much-needed fun to this New York Fashion Week. And Supreme ending the month with a new store opening in Paris—all day, I dream about Supreme.
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv28/29Tiziana Cardini, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Contributor
Chloé was charming. I totally fell for this dress. This is what I’d wear if I lived in Ibiza—and if I were as beautiful and blonde as Frederikke Sofie.
Photo: Kim WestonArnold / Indigital.tv29/29Hayley Phelan, Replica Hermes Bag Reviews.com Contributor
Alexander McQueen. Who can resist the idea of wearing a giant sequined unicorn—and little else? In all seriousness though, this was my favorite McQueen collectsion from Sarah Burton to date.