There must be something in the water—how else to explain the romantic, nostalgic spirit that ran through the Fall 2016 Couture collectsions shown in Paris, Rome, and Naples? Empire waistlines, ’40s-style suiting, and elegant plissé pleating were among the throwback trends to make a return this season, along with time-tested techniques like lacework, featherwork, and elaborate floral embellishments.
In sharp relief to these ethereal trends was a new interest in denim, that plebeian stuff, and the appearance of supersize hoop earrings on several catwalks. This disparity between fairy princesses and fresh-to-death trends might say something about the new couture consumer herself—she’s the kind of woman who’s a guest at black-tie balls and courtside at NBA games alike.
Here, we hone in on nine trends, high to low, that ruled the couture collectsions. You never know, they might just turn up on the top runways this September too.
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Photos: Courtesy of Indigital1/9The Empire Strikes Back
Empress Joséphine, Napoleon’s well-clad missus, would have had a field day with the Fall 2016 Couture collectsions. The stylist royal favored an empire waist in her day; today, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, and Giambattista Valli are remaking the high-waist silhouette for a modern woman.
Pictured from left: Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Giambattista Valli
Photos: Courtesy of Indigital2/9Suiting, ’40s Style
Peaked shoulders, nipped waists, and slim pencil skirts or trousers appeared at Elie Saab, Schiaparelli, and Jean Paul Gaultier this season, making the case that the dramatic look of ’40s tailoring is poised for a comeback. The good news: No pin-curls required.
Pictured from left: Elie Saab, Schiaparelli, Jean Paul Gaultier
Photos: Courtesy of Indigital3/9Flights of Fancy
Featherwork is one of the standard metiers used in couture, but this season, designers went above and beyond, using plumes in innovative and exciting new ways. At Giles Deacon’s Couture debut, this meant covering a dress in ostrich plumage, while at Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld kitted out his bride in tufts of delicate apricot-color feathers.
Pictured from left: Giles Deacon, Chanel, Givenchy
Photos: Courtesy of Indigital4/9Denim Days
Jeans at couture?! Believe it. Dolce & Gabbana, Viktor & Rolf, and Ronald van der Kemp all reimagined the everyday staple as something extraordinary by using embellishments, unusual weaving techniques, or recycled materials. Considering Kanye West wore jeans to this year’s Met Gala, you might want to keep an eye out for one of these styles at next year’s affair.
Pictured from left: Dolce & Gabbana, Viktor & Rolf, Ronald van der Kemp
Photos: Courtesy of Indigital5/9Pretty, Pretty Pleats
Plissé pleats brought a lightness to the Couture shows in Paris. At Dior, a series of finale dresses were made from folding and cutting the micro-pleats, while Iris van Herpen crafted weightless dresses from tiny folds. Even J. Mendel’s hefty beaded gowns were finished with plissé flounces in a rainbow of hues.
Pictured from left: Dior, Iris van Herpen, J. Mendel
Photos: Courtesy of Indigital6/9The Golden Thread
The most remarkable lacework this season was made so by its shimmering golden hue. Valentino’s Shakespearean heroines wore delicate golden armor, while Francesco Scognamiglio and Alberta Ferretti fashioned gilded gowns that shimmered down the catwalk.
Pictured from left: Valentino, Francesco Scognamiglio, Alberta Ferretti
Photos: Courtesy of Indigital7/9Hoop Dreams
No couture ensemble is complete without a great accessory, and the piece of choice this season was an oversize hoop earring. Both Atelier Versace and Armani Privé sent out shoulder-grazing crystal options, while John Galliano outfitted his Maison Margiela Artisanal models with door knockers of carved wood.
Pictured from left: Versace, Armani, Maison Margiela
Photos: Courtesy of Indigital8/9Petal Pushers
In the garden of couture gowns, flat floral patterns just don’t cut it. Instead, houses from Chanel to Elie Saab have taken to rendering flowers in three dimensions, leaving the petals to cascade off skirts or flutter on jacket sleeves.
Pictured from left: Elie Saab, Chanel, Ulyana Sergeenko
Photos: Courtesy of Indigital9/9Team Building
Every fairy princess needs a castle, a problem designers solved at the couture shows by turning those very buildings into whimsical patterns on gowns. Zuhair Murad crafted a mountainside village on one such number, while Karl Lagerfeld reworked Scandinavian landscapes into several dresses at Fendi. City-going fairies weren’t forgotten: Elie Saab sent out a couple of frocks with the Chrysler Building emblazoned on front.
Pictured from left: Zuhair Murad, Fendi, Elie Saab
