Anti-aging has gotten a rebrand as of late. Instead of trying to treat a skin concern—wrinkles, sagging skin, hyperpigmentation, etc—as soon as it pops up, everyone now is hyper-focused on treatments and products that prevent these concerns by rejuvenating skin from deep within. Not to mention, with the negative skin side effects caused by increased GLP-1 use, filler and aesthetic treatment fatigue, and better education on skin care as a whole, consumers are looking for routines that will consistently strengthen their skin barrier. Welcome to the regenerative skin-care era.
Vogue’s Favorite Regenerative Skin-Care Products
Regenerative skin care is hardly new and in fact, today’s most popular regenerative ingredients come from K-beauty, where the skin-care ethos has always been about prevention and boosting skin health. “The [western] industry has had to move beyond traditional anti-aging and develop formulas that actively support the skin’s biological repair mechanisms,” says Sarah Chung Park, founder and CEO of Landing International and creator of K-Beauty World. “Not just mask the visible effects.”
“What’s especially appealing to western consumers right now is the combination of innovation and accessibility,” adds Y. Claire Chang, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm. “Korean skin-care brands are quick to incorporate cutting-edge ingredients, like PDRN, peptides, and growth factors, into elegant, affordable formulations. K-beauty has a long-standing history of prioritizing skin barrier health and prevention, which aligns perfectly with the regenerative skin-care movement.”
PDRN, exosomes, and peptides are just a few of the buzzy regenerative ingredients that are trending everywhere as what were once found only in in-office treatments (salmon sperm facial, anyone?) are now infused in topical products. Park says these ingredients are stable, work at low concentrations, and, probably best of all, are tolerable for even the most sensitive skin, making them ideal for anyone looking to take care of their overall skin health. “Unlike something like a retinoid or an acid, they don’t require careful titration or cause irritation,” she says. “They signal the skin to repair itself rather than forcing a reaction.”
“The idea is not just treating the surface,” adds Dr. Chang. “But signaling the skin to renew.” Hooked yet? We know we are. If you don’t know where to start on your regenerative skin-care journey, we’ve got you. Here are the top four ingredients experts say should be on your radar:
Peptides
Everyone is in their peptide era—and for good reason. Known as the “silent powerhouse,” Dr. Kim explains that peptides are chains of amino acids that help with collagen stimulation and skin firmness. They act as signaling molecules in the skin, Dr. Chang adds, and are designed to “tell” the skin to produce more collagen, reduce inflammation, or strengthen the skin barrier.
But she says not all peptides are the same and that different peptides have different functions. “Peptides are relatively large molecules, so their ability to get deeper into the skin depends on the delivery system,” she says. “For example, signal peptides can stimulate collagen synthesis, while carrier peptides like copper peptides help deliver trace elements needed for skin repair.”
Peptides are generally safe and well-tolerated for most, which Dr. Chang says it makes them a great option for those with sensitive skin or anyone who can’t use more aggressive actives like retinoids.
PDRN
Made famous thanks to the “salmon sperm facial,” PDRN is one of the buzziest ingredients in regenerative skin care. The acronym stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide, per board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm and Skin of Color Society leader Nkem Ugonabo, MD, and is derived from salmon DNA. It works to repair skin and improve your skin texture, and Dr. Chang adds that it is known to reduce inflammation, promote wound healing, and support collagen production. PDRN is commonly used in injectable treatments and now more readily available in topical formulas.
While anyone can use PDRN, Dr. Chang recommends this for anyone with sensitive, inflamed, or compromised skin. “It helps restore the skin barrier while encouraging regeneration,” she explains. Dr. Ugonabo adds she loves this ingredient for added hydration and smoothing out uneven texture.
Exosomes
Dr. Chang says to think of exosomes like tiny messengers that help cells communicate with one another by carrying proteins, lipids, and genetic material between them. “In theory, they can help reduce inflammation, accelerate wound healing, and stimulate collagen production,” she says. You’ll find exosomes used often with procedures like microneedling or laser treatments to help speed up recovery and boost results.
She says that not all exosome products are created equally and that more studies are needed to confirm their benefits (this is especially true in topical skin care), but the science is promising. And incorporating it into your routine is fairly easy. Experts recommend seeking out exosomes derived from human stem cells that come with clinical studies for best results. Plant-based alternatives are also another option if that suits your needs better.
Growth Factors
Growth factors are an integral part of any skin-care routine because they do a lot. These naturally occurring proteins are known to hydrate, smooth out uneven texture, fade hyperpigmentation, and firm skin. There are many different types of growth factors, but the most known are epidermal growth factors (EGF), which David Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Soho Dermatology, says signal skin cells to grow thicker skin; it is the ideal ingredient if you’re looking to boost collagen and elastin production.
Most growth factors are gentle enough to use for even the most sensitive skin, but experts recommend this ingredient for those who have noticed early signs of aging, a compromised skin barrier, or to soothe skin post-in-office treatment.
Everything You Need to Know
What is regenerative skin care?
As Dr. Chang defines it, regenerative skin care refers to the treatments and ingredients that stimulate your skin’s natural repair processes. “Essentially [they] help your skin behave more like younger, healthier skin,” she says. “Instead of just hydrating or exfoliating, these approaches aim to activate cellular turnover, boost collagen and elastin production, and improve overall skin quality at a deeper level.”
Dr. Kim says it works great for those in their late 20s and onwards looking to keep skin replenished, healthy, and firm. Dr. Ugonabo adds that she particularly loves it for anyone with an impaired skin barrier from post-procedure skin (think after a laser treatment or microneedling) or irritation from excessive retinoid and exfoliant use.
How We Tested
When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue’s vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity estheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry’s standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.
As it relates to regenerative skin care, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: ingredients, texture, packaging, finish, and the skin-care concerns they address. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you.
Meet the Experts
- Nkem Ugonabo, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm and Skin of Color Society leader.
- David Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Soho Dermatology.
- Y. Claire Chang, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm.
- Sarah Chung Park, founder and CEO of Landing International and creator of K-Beauty World.
