If the eyes are the window to the soul, then your brows are the curtains that define your entire being. Hyperbolic, sure. But eyebrow shapes are sneakily one of the most important features to consider—even the slightest arch can make a huge difference in how we balance our features and provide facial structure. So deciding which one works best for you requires some extra thought and care.
If you don’t know where to start, we’ve got you. Consider this your lesson in eyebrow shapes 101, straight from the pros.
Key Takeaways
- Eyebrow shapes balance our features and provide facial structure.
- Your face shape, hairline, hairstyle, makeup habits, and lifestyle can all play roles in determining the best brow shape for you.
How to find your perfect brow
Many things go into finding your perfect brow, but it really depends on your facial structure and your natural hair. Whether you have a round, oval, square, or heart-shaped face, celebrity brow artist and Chanel ambassador Jimena Garcia says assessing your face shape can help determine what brow arches are best for balancing out your features. She adds that things like your brow’s natural fullness, how your hair grows, and what aesthetic you’re aiming for can also dictate what shape is most flattering.
Kristie Streicher, celebrity brow artist and founder of KS&CO, says that she likes to look at bone structure (“The brow bone acts as a natural blueprint for where the brow should live,” she says), natural growth pattern, and hair density before shaping and grooming brows. “I look at where the hair naturally grows, where the brow is sparse, and where small adjustments can open and lift the eye area,” Streicher says. “Brows should follow bone structure and natural growth patterns, not trends.”
“You want to create symmetry and balance in the eye area and what feels harmonious to your overall face shape,” adds celebrity makeup artist Daniel Martin.
What is brow mapping?
Another way to figure out your best eyebrow shape is through brow mapping. According to Martin, brow mapping is a three-point technique that uses your facial structure to show you where your brow should start, peak, and end. Garcia adds that brow mapping is all based on the proportions of your nose, eyes, and overall face. By measuring these key points, you’ll be able to find the most flattering brow shape. “You create a blueprint that ensures the brow shape enhances your natural symmetry,” she says. “Essentially, it takes the guesswork out, helping you shape brows that are tailored specifically to your face.”
The Best Eyebrow Shape for Every Face Shape
Don’t know your face shape? No problem. Martin says you can look in a mirror to analyze your jawline, forehead, and cheekbones.
Take something like a lipstick or liner to trace your face with an imaginary line to measure the width between the widest points. The most common face shapes and the best brows for each can be broken down as follows:
Martin says that square faces usually have strong, angular jawlines, with measurements of proportions being roughly the same. The best brows for this face shape would be soft angles.
“Square faces often have strong bone structure, which can support a beautiful brow,” says Streicher. “I usually keep the brow soft but defined so it complements the natural structure of the face without looking overly sculpted.”
“The goal is to soften those strong angles,” adds Garcia. “A gentle arch helps counterbalance the angular jawline.” To do this, she says to shape a lifted arch where the tail can taper naturally, but keep the brow looking full.
An oval face can be defined as one where your face length is bigger than the width of your cheekbones, and your forehead is wider than your jawline, says Martin. Your jawline will also be more rounded.
Because oval faces are already naturally balanced, Streicher says that the goal is to preserve and groom the brows rather than changing the shape. “I tend to keep the brow soft and full with a gentle lift toward the outer third rather than creating a dramatic arch,” she says. “Subtle refinement almost always looks the most natural.”
Martin says a heart-shaped face is where the forehead is the widest part of your face, and then tapers down to a narrow, pointed chin. For this face shape, Garcia says to opt for a rounded brow. “A softly curved brow helps soften and balance those angles,” she says. “I’d advise shaping a gentle, rounded arch (nothing too sharp) to bring softness. Keep the shape natural and balanced, and let the brow taper gently toward the temple to harmonize with the face’s delicate proportions.”
A rectangle-shaped face (a.k.a. an oblong face) is similar to a square face, but Martin says it is noticeably longer than it is wide. “[The] forehead, cheeks, and jawline are typically the same angular width too,” he says.
Garcia says to go for a flatter, more horizontal brow to help visually shorten the length of the face and create a more balanced width. Streicher adds that a soft, subtle arch that’s not too high or exaggerated will also help with facial balance.
With a round face, Martin says that the length and cheekbone width are pretty equal. “You have soft, curved features and a rounded jawline,” he says.
Streicher says to focus on following your natural brow bone and growth pattern. “For someone with softer facial contours, that might mean subtly defining the outer arch and cleaning up underneath the brow to open the eye area,” she says. “Overly rounded brows are something I try to avoid because they can echo the roundness of the eye area and accentuate dark circles, puffiness, etc.”
Garcia recommends a softly angled or higher-arched brow to give subtle lift and the illusion of vertical length; this will balance the roundness of your features and bring structure. You can easily get this by gently shaving the arch just above your natural brow bone and keeping the tail a bit longer to elongate the face.
Full Brow vs. Thin Brow
Thin brows get a bad rap, and there are times when they can be flattering. When deciding if they are for you, Garcia says to consider your facial features. A thin, refined brow can help balance out smaller, delicate ones.
Fuller brows, on the other hand, are pretty universal and bring a more natural vibe. She says to keep your shape groomed and not over-plucked, and aim for a shape that complements your bone structure. Streicher agrees and says full brows tend to be more forgiving and versatile; the key is making it look as natural as possible. “The goal isn’t forcing thickness,” she says. “It’s creating balance and proportion based on what someone naturally has.”
What else might determine the best eyebrow shape for your face?
Your hairline, hairstyle, makeup habits, and lifestyle—Streicher says that everything plays a role when you’re trying to determine the best brow shape for you. “Some clients wear very little makeup and want a brow that feels effortless and low maintenance, while others enjoy filling and styling their brows every day. I always consider how someone actually lives when shaping their brows,” she says. “A great brow shouldn’t feel like a daily project; it should work with how you actually live.”
Brow Upkeep
When all else fails, you can always turn to a brow professional to help guide your shape, says Martin. From there, maintenance is pretty minimal, and you’ll only need to focus on filling and trimming.
Streicher recommends grooming every six to eight weeks so that the brows grow at an even length and keep your shape consistent. You can use something like her KS&CO Microfeathering Pen to fill in small gaps and give you that hair-like feel. Garcia recommends the Chanel Stylo Sourcils Haute Précision Microfine Defining Eyebrow Pencil or the Jones Road The Brow Pencil in Gray for fill-ins. And above all else, “The most important tip I give clients is simple,” Streicher says. “Tweeze less.”
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